Recent content by mjr6550

If you have a public water supply you could install a water powered sump pump. They use a lot of water when operating, but no battery to worry about.

I am looking for some input from those with more experience. I seldom do much engineering with steel. I have a client who wants to remove a column in the basement of a single family dwelling. The existing beam is a W10x26. The full span is approximately 29 feet with concrete foundation walls...

I've only seen it used for lifting slabs. One company I looked up says lifting forces up to 6000 psf are possible.

I assume that this is a structural ridge based on the size. As in no ceiling joists or suitable collar ties. What had been supporting the post?

IMO polyurethane injection is a good substitute for mud jacking-filling voids below a slab. I have never heard of it being used for compaction grouting. Maybe it is a legitimate method and maybe it is just someone with a franchise winging it.

Over 16' span is pushing it for 2x10's. You only have 10' of floor load, but the knee walls can transfer roof loads down to the joists, unless the roof is stiffer than the floor. You will also get some additional deflection over time added to what you have. I would second the option of using...

I often use a rotary hammer drill. Not much vibration. You could buy a cheap core bit just to get a clean cut at the surface and then drill the rest.

You could try Northeastern Lumber Manufacturers Association: NELMA www.nelma.org/

The plate looked level. The web buckled near the bottom flange.

I saw that this I-beam (24 inch deep) shifted out of plumb by about 2 inches. Then I looked at the other side and saw that it was well braced ;)http://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=6a4866ad-b6cd-4aba-8f4f-3a312e7c64b1&file=P9211752_(1024x683).jpg

I saw that this I-beam (24 inch deep) shifted out of plumb by about 2 inches. Then I looked at the other side and saw that it was well braced ;)http://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=a4ac69fa-ab2b-41a1-a865-5fe40a7f6872&file=P9211750_(1024x683).jpg

Limited info to go on, but solid plywood sides, even if only half the full height may help quit a bit if properly nailed or screwed and glued at the bottom edges and corners.

I have seen this done quite a few times. It typically seems to have worked,but I would not be comfortable specifying this method.

I would like to know what they are doing around 18:10 in the film. Looks like a hollow pushrod or similar. Are then brazing?

I am in PA and that is the case. Not required and cannot file a claim.