I'm getting emails for the seminar by Lou Geschwindner
https://learning.aisc.org/local/catalog/view/product.php?productid=2435
AISC will typically post the video after the presentation that is free to view.
You might also add a note about what to do for bigger gaps. Off-the-shelf shims are maybe 1/4" at the thick end. If the joists are wonky you might need something thicker. If you don't want them to add multiple pieces, which starts to look sloppy, you could add a note to cut a flat block to...
I'd guess that this is what the reviewer was looking for. To me, this is not a question about whether 102% is just as good as 100% given the circumstances, but rather who is the person who must make that determination.
That's not a judgement for the reviewer to make; it's the responsibility...
a few thoughts:
[ol 1]
-sometimes its better to go with an absolute number for deflection. Keep the dl defl low because these will be actual cracks in your existing drywall upstairs. LL deflection can be a reflection of the existing stiffness of your house.
-be mindful of the location of the...
Probably the cheapest option for you is to give a 'lifetime warranty" because there's a low probability that you'll have to make good on it. That's a shady option, though, in my opinion, and one that should not be offered.
A better option would be to have a local engineer verify that this has...
I give this a yesbut.
Yes. But... keep a very close limit on the deflection of the steel beam. My sense is that it needs to be very stiff relative to the concrete beam for this to work like you want it to. I think it's probably worthwhile to pick a point at the 1/4 span of the beam and chip...
When does an owner or builder say, "I want to spend more of my money today for the benefit of a future owner who I don't know." I think the answer is relevant to your situation.
I expect that you're overestimating the actual live load (by a lot) and dead load (by some) and underestimating the...
No geotech I've ever met would consider rock exposed to elements and weathering to be adequate for the long term bearing of that toe. Nor sign off on the shear capacity of the rock resisting the key.
I think a different type of wall system might be worth looking into.
I'm not in the UK, but I think that an engineer would consider the connection of the other materials as being more effective in carrying shear back into the masonry wall than the bearing point of the steel. I'm not convinced an engineer was involved in the projects you show.
If I needed to...
I recommend you put mortar on the slab and set the blocks on that. In my opinion, it's better than the minor damage you do to the slab with multiple unnecessary holes.