Reference thread507-111215
I have an old house remodel where we need to attach hold down straps to an existing concrete basement wall. The wall is 6" thick and appears to be in good condition, but is likely unreinforced or minimally so. Based on past local experience I am certain the concrete...
I have a single story residential home with hollow 8" CMU block walls and wood framed roof. Client wants to add wood framed 2nd floor. It is a 27' x 30' box with upper and lower walls aligning, so pretty simple job. There are existing wood framed lower level additions on 2 sides, so only the...
I do not wish to belabor the pros/cons or likes/dislikes of epoxy anchors. I deal with a lot of remodels, so they are a necessary evil. That said, when the guys run into rebar with their drill, the obvious options are: 1) move to the other side of the stud pack (where possible) and try again...
For what its worth, TopKnot, I always use the allowed 0.6 DL on a shear wall to help with my hold down forces. As far as friction for shear anchors, I have not done that. Honestly, I'm not sure if the code speaks to whether or not that is allowed. It seems reasonable (only because you are...
I like a 5/16"x5-1/8" GRK washer head screw for the connection. Gets 3-1/2" embed with good strength. I up my F.S. a bit to further account for end grain weakness. (3) of those screws in a HF p.t. Ledger will get around 450 lb allowable shear in total, which will work more than fine for an...
As long as the 0.67 end grain reduction is taken AND the end grain is solid with no decay AND there is post/beam supporting the outer end AND the p.t. ledger that is attached with screws to the end grain is flashed well enough it should work no problem. I have done a very similar repair a few...
We are going to block it at the bearings and mid span. I thought about this awhile and the double offset rafter will actually be quite symmetrical. Each end will bear evenly such that it should not twist at all, even without blocking.
Thank you racookpe1978, but I don't think you understand what I'm proposing. There is no "actual" joint. Just a 25' double member with 23' overlap. That is a 23' moment arm, as I think you are seeing it.
This is indoors and covered. Using 2 full 24' DF2 rafters, spliced together and offset such that we have one member that is 25' long, with only single 2x12 protruding at each end, allowing LUS210 hangers. That is a 23' lap splice. Glue and nail gun no problem. Done.
Immensely helpful, SlideRuleEra! Thank you very much! And my thanks is not because you are supporting my hunch, it is that you took my problem at face value and dove into it with me to help me solve it. I really appreciate that.
To everyone else, please know that I am certainly...
The Framer (a good one whom I know) is the one asking for options. 2x12's are solid DF2. LVL and LSL have to be ripped down to 11.25" or special order and are more $ per LF.
Thanks to those willing to consider it. As I was hoping, no one has any good reason not to do it except our natural aversion to a spliced member (probably due to having seen it done poorly so many times in existing buildings). TJI do not work because I have to match 11.25" depth elsewhere...
