Recent content by dexion7

Have you done a free body diagram to understand all the forces and directions of the forces? no, I'm not familiar with such things. Is there insufficient detail in my above posts?

" I guess my big question is if you're using 50x38mm bar, why a heim joint at all? Why not just drill the bar? " those joints would allow precise adjustment and repeatability of the position of the engine within the chassis which is a key requirement of the project. that's also why there would...

thanks for the responses guys and apologies for the brevity of the original information. the components are brackets (there are actually 2) which will support each side of the cylinder head of a bike engine (engine assembly includes gearbox) in a kit car. whilst I earlier said the load on the...

I'm planning to make a mount to support a 150kg engine from a solid 200mm x 38 x 50 rectangular section aluminum bar of which each end will have an M16 hole tapped and fitted with a rose joint, the bores of which will be bolted to the chassis. obviously there would be a washer and then a lock...

the car wasn't designed for the engine/diff installation I'm attempting & the chassis member is diagonal so cant raise the diff. Also can't lower the diff (which would clear the chassis member) but would have it hanging out under the car. the easiest solution looks like two piece half shafts as...

thanks Greg, do you think that the typical rubber propshaft support bearing would suffice or are the loads likely to be higher such that e.g. a self aligning roller bearing would be required?

I am seeking opinions on a suitable bearing support method for the half shafts on a kitcar on the rear axle (please see diagram). The usual arrangement for independent rear suspension vehicles would be to connect the diff and each wheel hub with a single shaft which has a CV joint at each end...

both the rear diff and the centre diff are viscous coupled units which have been uprated (less slip than standard) and tyres are semi slick compound. the car is not traction limited at any speed (except on damp roads - which it doesn't go out on). the engine & gearbox are from a ford cosworth...

it hasn't bent yet that i am aware of i wouldn't have done it in a 2wd chassis but thought it would be ok 4wd as i imagined that the chassis stress at each end would balance out. still looking for a definitive view of the situation however....

this is the car but i'm not sure how it helps you. its a dax rush which is a copy of the original Lotus 7 from the 60's. there are many kit car companies who made copies of the Lotus 7 varying from good to shocking. the Dax Rush was designed from the outset to support high output engines and...

well that's the same as reducing engine torque but doesn't address the question!

the diffs are solid mounted and the engine/transmission unit is mounted on rubber mounts. is the parallel combination of springs in series suggesting that the chassis twist will be mitigated or not mitigated?

well both drive shafts turn in the same direction if that's what you mean? obviously, so do both pairs of half shafts!

all corners have double wishbone suspension. there is a drive shaft from the transmission to the back diff and another drive shaft to the front diff from the transmission. there is a centre differential which splits the torque 60/40. my question is, will the effect of having drive to both ends...

the front diff is not mounted to the engine, its bolted to the chassis. the rear diff is likewise bolted to the chassis at the rear. the car has wishbones on all four corners - no transaxles.