It will not be necessary to heat treat after welding. This has been gone over in the drag racing game by NHRA a number of times. If it was very thick sections then a post heat treat might be necessary. It shouldn't be necessary to have anyting over 1/4 in thick unless you into heavy trucks...
Here is a run of one of the shop cars...Telstar in the left lane in 2010. You can see the rings dieing at about 1.29 of the vid. and right up to the time of launch. Then right at the finish line they really cough. The funny thing is that they continued to run the same rings for several weeks...
Probably the biggest single advantaqge to an aluminum block is that when the rods get kicked out the block is relatively easily fixed. The " holes" are called windows. A block may have 4 "windows" for example. Aluminum Blocks are commonly welded.
Next is that these drag race blocks are...
Well the funnycar shop I hang out at and store my streetrod lost 4 motors and a rear end in 5 straight weeks. Here is a list of the major parts destroyed or damaged.
destroyed or being repaired:
32 pistons, pins and rings
32 connecting rods
3 camshafts
12 roller lifters
3 crankshafts broken
1...
I don't see any reason you can't use one of the new "6-71" blowers commonly used on the nostalgia funnycars. We have 2 cars at the shop with these and they can make close to 30 pounds of boost on a 500 cu in motor with just 19% OD. They run 8500 engine rpm run after run.
Some of cars use 417...
I passingly followed this thread from way back. Pat hit on the roots blower and either FI or carbs on the intake side of the blower.
My streetrod had a 355 cu in SBC with a 6-71 and 2 750 cfm carbs on top of it. No bypas or any of that stuff. This car is as close to a daily driver as you can...
Charlie... I worked on both side of this fence for many years. There used to be lots of automation houses specializing in specific areas or types of automation. Many of these are gone now. There are still a few large ones and some smaller ones. I also was a consultant or middle man who...
King..Glad you posted this. I preach this all the time to the crews. Even demos of this fail to convince the guys at the shop.
Nobody will take the time to look at Omega's site.
99 Dodge CTD dually.
Edstainless....that's exactly what I'm telling these guys. The tanks always have a little oil in them after a run that is hard to get out so it is just left there. I believe the residual oil raises the flash point just as you say.
So the new tank will get a quart of fresh 70 wt sloshed thru it...
I got a little more information on this today from the team. The 'event' happened about 5 minutes into the alcohol part of the warmup. The motor runs about 2800 rpm. It 'popped' or miss fired then the tank blew up. They continued the warmup and switched to the nitro for another 10 minutes...
I build a lot of race car fuel and oil tanks. Most are made from .060 or .050 3003 aluminum. This one was .060. I use 4043 rod unless they are anodized. Even some of those get anodized even though there is a darker shade where they are welded. I use a square wave TIG welder. The tanks have...
Here is a link to one of the great studies of baseball. I've still got the book somewhere in my old baseball stuff. He investigated the bat situation pretty well. It's a good read for engineers.
The author was commissioned to do the book by MLB...
Possibly you can develope a heavy spring loaded 'stripper' on the spindle. It would press hard on the sheet/stack first before the drill started and stay pressed until the drill retracted. Similar to a punch and die. You could even use a guide bushing and guide the drill for even more...
I played baseball untill I was 62 and hit with everything from a broom stick to hi tech composite and titanium bats. I gave into the high tech stuff and bought a very expensive top of the line ultimate bat. Guess what...my batting average went down a bunch!!! I switched back to a trusty 10...
